Christmas Vacation in the Engadine

Rick and I spent a quiet Christmas Eve together at home. To make our dinner a little more special, we enjoyed the fois gras and white wine given to us by our friends Jean-Erick and Carol when we had visited them in France in November. We were saving it for a special occasion! (and it was delicious!) Then we went to midnight mass at Comano’s Catholic Church, Santa Maria (Saint Mary’s). The small choir was wonderful! And from what we could understand of the priest’s message, he talked about all the people who show up for Christmas and wish they would keep coming throughout the year! Sounds like the same message everywhere! As usual, it was a peaceful, still night.

On Christmas morning – what a surprise! We woke up to a white Christmas in Comano! Snow is not all that common in this southern part of Switzerland (as you’ve probably noticed all the palm trees in many of my pictures.) Again, we spent the day around Comano, taking a walk during the day to enjoy all the nativity scenes set up by the local people. The town actually had a map posted where all the nativity scenes were set up. Many were done with things from nature – using clumps of moss we always see on the sides of walls for the ground, tree branches, etc. There was even a scene with everything made from mushrooms! We took a quick drive down the mountain to Lugano, where there was no snow – only rain. It continued to snow all day in Comano, so later in the evening we went out for another walk. It was one of those nights we may get just once a year in Chicago – big fluffy flakes of snow, 32 degrees, and no wind. It was so pleasant! We even made a snowman outside our front door before going to bed.

On December 26^th we woke up to find Comano just buried in snow! But it was very beautiful! Well, this was the day we were going to drive to Sils-Maria,

Switzerland

, which is just down the road from St. Moritz, about a 3 hour drive from Lugano. We had to make a decision whether to leave or not that day. Looking at the webcams on the internet with views down at the lake, I could see that there wasn’t much snow along the lake, and since most of our drive would be along Lake Lugano and Lake Como, we decided to head out. Nancy, our hostess in Sils, called us just before we were leaving to tell us that the Maloja Pass was open, as Italian workers who live in Chiavenna had made it to work that morning. It was actually raining lightly that day, and although there was some snow along our route, the roads were clear and it just rained. So actually, to get from Lugano to Sils-Maria, most of the trip is through

Italy

and then we drive back up into

Switzerland

. As we headed up the valley towards the Maloja Pass, there was more and more snow on the ground (but the road still clear). Just before the road starts the winding climb, there was a police checkpoint, where all cars were checked – you needed to have either a 4 wheel drive or chains on your wheels. (We didn’t have either, just winter tires). Lots of people were stopped alongside the road putting their chains on. So we had to turn around and go back about 5 miles to the nearest service station to buy chains, but by the time we returned that same point, the roadblock was gone and the pass open to anyone! But we had our chains on anyway. They must have been still working on plowing when the police stopped us. There were no problems getting through the pass – actually, this pass is unusual since once you get to the top you just stay there, driving along the lakes in the valley. With other passes, once you get to the top you go back

down. Once we were at the top, the main road was snowpacked, but we still would have probably done fine without our chains since it’s a flat road – but we had them on anyway!

Rick and I were very fortunate to have been offered a place to stay with Nancy and Urs Kienberger. Nancy is an American who is married to a Swiss, Urs, and Nancy is best friends with one of the teachers from Wheeling High School. It was through this teacher that we were connected with Nancy and Urs. Urs’s grandfather opened the Waldhaus Hotel in Sils-Maria back in 1908, and now Urs and his sister and her family run the 5-star hotel. Since this is the high season, there were no rooms available anywhere in this region, so we found ourselves so fortunate for the hospitality of Nancy and Urs in letting us stay at their home in Sils. And Nancy is a wonderful cook and insisted we eat dinner at their home.

December 27^th: Rick and I headed out to explore the area. It was a beautiful, sunny day. By chance we found the hiking path that headed up into the Fex Valley. It’s amazing how even after a big snowstorm, all the hiking and cross-country skiing trails are groomed and ready to go. As you can see from some of my pictures, this valley was absolutely gorgeous, with horses pulling sleighs all through the valley. After a good hike around the valley, we headed back down to find a place to eat lunch. We ate at the Beach Club! Yes, there’s a beach on Lake Silvaplana (covered with snow, of course!)

That evening, we went to the Waldhaus for dinner. We were again so very fortunate – most of the guests at the hotel buy a package which includes dinner. If they will not be at dinner, they let the hotel know. So Nancy, Rick and I were able to use the table of some guests who went elsewhere, and since the meal was already paid for, we thoroughly enjoyed a 4-course French dinner! Every evening, Urs makes it a point to talk to each one of his guests, checking to make sure they are happy with everything. Nancy also gave us a tour of the hotel and explained its history. Knowing all those details made the visit so much more special! The Waldhaus is a wonderfully charming hotel and I’d recommend it to everyone!

December 28^th: It snowed all day today. In the morning Rick and I were going to go ice skating, but decided to go sledding instead. We rented our sled and headed to the hill. It was a wooden sled that I had never used before, and it didn’t seem like it could be steered. Once at the hill, I was disappointed that it was not organized – so unlike Switzerland! Kids were climbing back up at any location, parents were standing in the middle of the hill watching their kids, and cross-country skiers were leaving their trails to go up into the woods behind the sled hill – but climbing up right in the middle of where the sledders were trying to go down! So Rick managed a few runs in the few brief breaks of no obstacles, but I was afraid of not being able to steer and running into someone and breaking their legs!

In the afternoon Urs had a day off and we all had lunch together at the house. Then we all drove to St. Moritz to have an afternoon cup of coffee, and with Nancy and Urs as our personal local guides, we learned so many interesting things about the area! But after seeing St. Moritz, I’d take Sils-Maria any day! St. Moritz was very crowded, and totally the long-fur coat crowd. It was a constant parade of the fanciest ski outfit or most expensive fur coat. (So far from our lifestyle!)

When we returned to Sils, Rick and I went to check on getting a skiing lesson set up for me, since I wanted to try to learn to ski – at least a beginning, while I was here at the ski slopes. So we went to the shop to rent the skis for the next day, but I had never put on a ski boot, and boy, it was so tight around my leg! From all those years of aerobics I’ve got some big, muscular calves, and the boot, set to its loosest notch, was still feeling like my circulation was being cut off. I was disappointed, but felt it best not to have a boot on like that all day – I knew that wouldn’t make for a good time. So we switched to renting cross-country skis.

December 29^th: There are many groomed, cross-country ski trails in the area, and many go along the flat valley and across the frozen lakes. But we had noticed that it’s windier there, so Rick and I decided to carry our skis and hike back up into the Fex Valley up from Sils where we had seen many trails and spectacular scenery! What an outstanding day! The scenery, well, I just don’t think it could be surpassed. And for the cross-country skiing, it was by far the best we’ve ever had. Up in the valley it would be considered an advanced course, but we loved it for the many ups and downs which make things interesting! At one point going downhill, Rick fell, and the snow off to the side was so deep a man came to help him get up. Rick had sunk in pretty far! I loved the downhills, but I only attempted them when I could see ahead of time where I was going. For example, at one downhill, there was a sharp curve and then the trail went over a creek. I began my downhill at the point where I knew I wouldn’t end up in the cold creek if I didn’t make the turn!

There are several spots where hikers and skiers can stop for a drink or for lunch, so Rick and I had our lunch on the mountain and took a little rest. After lunch we skied some more, and on the way down, I decided to hike back down while Rick took the main decent. It was getting late in the afternoon and since I was not familiar with this route I didn’t want to get caught up there at dusk. It ended up with Rick and I getting home about the same time anyway. He said his decent was difficult – going through the woods with lots of sharp turns and downhills – until the final decent – connecting up to the final leg of the ski slope for the downhill skiers! So there he was at the end of his trail skiing down with the others – but on cross-country skis. I’m very proud of him – I know that’s got to be much more difficult!

That evening Rick and I and Nancy and Urs all went to a classical concert at the local school. It was a special evening in Sils since the symphony only comes once a year. Once again, Nancy and Urs treated us to such a special evening, and we thoroughly enjoyed the concert!

December 30^th: Before heading back to Lugano, Nancy gave us a tip to take a ride just past St. Moritz and go up the tram to Muottas Muragl for the best view of the Engadine region. It was a beautifully, clear day, so we definitely wanted to take advantage of it! The view was stunning, as you can see in the picture. Then we headed back to the Maloja Pass and wound down the mountain. Since it was snowing the day we arrived, we were happy for the clear skies to see the scenery that we had missed. And of course, the temperature got warmer and warmer as we approached Lake Como. We stopped for lunch in Domaso along Lake Como, and only needed a light jacket. Back in Comano it was pleasantly warm – in the 40’s (F), but still with remnants of the big Christmas day snowstorm!